Syphoning—also written as siphoning—is the cleanest way to move beer, wine, cider or mead from one vessel to another without pouring the sediment across with it. In home brewing, this transfer is often called racking.
The principle is simple: the full vessel sits higher than the receiving vessel, a liquid-filled tube runs downhill between them, and gravity keeps the flow moving. The important parts are starting the syphon hygienically, keeping the inlet above the sediment and avoiding splashing.
What Is Racking?
Racking means transferring a fermented drink away from the layer of yeast, fruit pulp or other sediment at the bottom of its vessel. It may be done before clearing, conditioning, bottling or kegging when the recipe or kit instructions call for it.
Racking is useful, but more transfers are not automatically better. Every unnecessary transfer creates another opportunity for contamination, oxygen exposure and lost volume. Follow your recipe and rack for a clear reason rather than simply because a few days have passed.
What You Need
- A full vessel: positioned securely above the receiving vessel.
- A clean receiving vessel: large enough for the full transfer and sanitised before use.
- A suitable syphon: choose a length and size that fits the vessel and batch.
- Food-grade tubing: long enough to reach the bottom of the receiving vessel without pulling tight.
- A syphon starter or auto syphon: use a hygienic starting method rather than drawing liquid through the tube by mouth.
- A clip or tap: optional, but useful for holding the inlet steady or controlling flow.
Browse our complete range of syphons and racking equipment. For a simple 5-litre setup, see the Simple Syphon Kit. For larger fermenters, choose the 23L Simple Syphon Kit or 23L Fermtech Auto Syphon.
How to Syphon Beer, Wine or Cider
- Make sure the drink is ready. Check the recipe or kit instructions. If you are transferring for bottling, confirm fermentation has finished with stable hydrometer readings; a quiet airlock is not enough.
- Move the full vessel early. Put it on a stable table or worktop several hours beforehand so any disturbed sediment can settle again. Never lift a full glass carboy by its neck or an accessory handle alone.
- Clean and sanitise everything. Clean the syphon, tubing, tap, clip and receiving vessel, then sanitise every surface that will touch the drink. Follow the product's contact-time and rinsing instructions.
- Place the receiving vessel lower. The outlet must remain lower than the liquid level in the source vessel. A greater height difference usually produces a faster flow.
- Position the inlet. Keep the sediment trap or cane just above the sediment. A clip can stop it sliding deeper as the liquid level falls.
- Run the outlet to the bottom. Place the end of the tubing near the base of the receiving vessel so the liquid fills quietly from below rather than splashing.
- Start the flow hygienically. Use the action specified for your auto syphon, a suitable starter, or sanitised pre-filled tubing. Do not suck directly on the tube.
- Watch the transfer. Keep the inlet submerged, check connections for air leaks and lower the cane gradually as the level drops without dragging it through the sediment.
- Stop before the sediment enters. A small amount of liquid left behind is better than carrying a large sediment layer into the clean vessel.
- Seal the receiving vessel promptly. Fit the correct lid, bung or airlock, or continue directly to bottling or kegging as the instructions require.
How to Reduce Oxidation
Oxygen is useful at the beginning of some fermentations, but after fermentation it can dull hop aroma, darken wine and create stale or sherry-like flavours. Keep post-fermentation transfers calm and brief.
- Do not pour or deliberately splash finished beer, wine or cider.
- Keep the outlet tube near the bottom of the receiving vessel.
- Use tubing that fits tightly so air is not drawn through loose joints.
- Prepare everything before starting so the vessel is not left open unnecessarily.
- Use an appropriately sized receiving vessel to avoid excessive headspace during storage or ageing.
How to Leave Sediment Behind
Settle the vessel before you begin and keep the syphon inlet above the compacted layer. A sediment trap helps, but it cannot compensate for pushing the cane into the deposit or moving the vessel during transfer.
If sediment begins travelling through the tube, pinch or close the flow, raise the inlet slightly and allow the disturbance to settle. When bottling, stop if the sediment is badly disturbed; reseal the vessel and let it settle before continuing.
Auto Syphon or Traditional Syphon?
| Type | Best for | Points to consider |
|---|---|---|
| Simple syphon kit | Low-cost transfers and occasional small or full batches | Needs a separate hygienic method to start the flow |
| Auto syphon | Frequent racking and easy one-person transfers | Must match the vessel depth and be cleaned carefully after use |
| Tube with tap | Controlling flow during transfer or bottling | The tap stops or regulates liquid; it does not start the syphon |
| Racking cane with sediment trap | Holding the inlet steady above settled yeast | Requires correctly sized tubing and a starting method |
The Syphon Tube with Tap is a straightforward choice when flow control matters. The 4.5L Auto Syphon suits demijohn-sized batches, while the 23L version is made for deeper buckets and carboys.
When Should You Rack?
Wine
Wine may be racked away from heavy sediment before clearing, maturation or bottling. The correct timing depends on the kit or recipe. Keep headspace low during post-fermentation storage and avoid repeated transfers without a clear benefit. See our How to Make Wine at Home guide for the full process.
Beer
Many modern beer-kit batches can remain in the primary fermenter until packaging; a secondary vessel is not automatically required. Transfer only when the recipe, conditioning method or packaging setup benefits from it. Avoid splashing because finished beer is particularly vulnerable to oxidation. Read our beginner's beer brewing guide.
Cider
Cider may be racked for clearing or ageing, but the need and timing depend on the method. Never use racking as proof that fermentation has finished, and confirm stable gravity before bottling. Our How to Make Cider guide covers safe sweetening and bottling.
Cleaning and Storing Syphon Equipment
Rinse tubing and syphon parts promptly after use so residue does not dry inside. Clean with a product and method suitable for the material, then sanitise immediately before the next transfer. Allow the equipment to drain and dry before storage.
Inspect flexible tubing regularly. Replace it if it becomes scratched, badly stained, stiff, split, cloudy or difficult to clean. Brushes and abrasive tools can scratch soft tubing, giving residue and microorganisms somewhere to remain.
Do not assume every plastic part tolerates boiling water or strong chemicals. Follow the manufacturer's temperature and chemical guidance.
Common Syphoning Mistakes
- Starting the syphon by mouth: this introduces saliva and microorganisms to sanitised equipment.
- Putting both vessels at the same height: gravity needs the outlet below the source liquid level.
- Letting the inlet break the surface: this stops the syphon and can draw air into the drink.
- Dragging the cane through sediment: move it gradually and stop before the deposit reaches the inlet.
- Splashing into the receiving vessel: run the outlet to the bottom and fill quietly.
- Using loose or mismatched tubing: poor connections can leak liquid or draw air.
- Racking too often: unnecessary transfers increase oxidation, contamination and volume loss.
- Forgetting to open a tap or clamp: check the complete flow path before pumping an auto syphon.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between syphoning and racking?
Syphoning describes the gravity-fed transfer method. Racking is the brewing and winemaking term for transferring a drink away from sediment, usually with a syphon.
Is syphon or siphon the correct spelling?
Both spellings are used. “Syphon” is common in UK home brewing, while “siphon” is the standard spelling in many other contexts.
Do I need to suck the syphon tube?
No. Use an auto syphon, a suitable starter or another sanitised priming method. Drawing liquid through the tube by mouth risks contamination.
Why does my syphon keep stopping?
The outlet may not be low enough, the inlet may be breaking the surface, or a joint may be drawing air. Check that the source is securely raised, the tubing is not kinked and every connection fits properly.
Can I syphon upwards?
The tube can rise over the rim of the source vessel, but the outlet must finish below the source liquid level. Gravity cannot maintain the flow into a receiving vessel that is too high.
Should I rack beer into a secondary fermenter?
Not routinely. Many beers can stay in the primary fermenter until packaging. Use a secondary vessel when the recipe or process gives a specific reason, and minimise oxygen exposure during the transfer.
How do I stop sediment entering the syphon?
Let the vessel settle before starting, use a sediment trap or racking cane, secure the inlet just above the deposit and stop the flow before the final cloudy liquid reaches it.
Can the same syphon be used for beer, wine and cider?
Food-grade syphon equipment can generally be used for all three if it is compatible with the vessels and is thoroughly cleaned, inspected and sanitised between batches.
Choose the Right Syphon
Match the syphon length to the vessel, the tubing bore to its fittings and the transfer method to your batch size. Browse all syphons, tubing, auto syphons and racking equipment, or visit The Hop Shop in Plymouth if you need help matching parts before buying.