Ingredients
- 2.5kg ripe pears
- 250ml white grape juice concentrate
- Up to 1kg brewing sugar
- Cool water to make 4.5 litres
- 1 teaspoon acid blend
- 1 teaspoon pectolase
- 1 teaspoon yeast nutrient
- 1 Campden tablet
- 1 sachet Gervin GV5 wine yeast
Shop the ingredients
Brewing Sugar 1kg
White Grape Juice Concentrate 250ml
Acid Blend 100g
Pectolase
Yeast Nutrient
Campden Tablets
Gervin GV5 Yeast
Equipment
- 10-litre fermentation bucket with lid
- 4.5-litre glass demijohn
- Bored demijohn bung and airlock
- Hydrometer and trial jar
- Large coarse straining bag (22cm base × 45cm deep)
- Long brewing spoon
- Syphon tubing
- No-rinse sanitiser
- Five or six 750ml clear glass wine bottles
- Wine corks and a hand corker
Shop the equipment
6-Bottle Wine Starter Kit
10 Litre Fermentation Bucket
1 Gallon Glass Demijohn
Demijohn Bung
Bubbler Airlock
Wine & Beer Hydrometer
Plastic Trial Jar
Large Coarse Straining Bag
40cm Brewing Spoon
Syphon Tubing
No-Rinse Sanitiser
750ml Wine Bottle
Premium Wine Corks
Hand Corker
Preparation
Choose and prepare the pears
Use ripe, fragrant pears that still have enough firmness to chop cleanly. Conference, Comice, Williams/Bartlett and other dessert pears all work well. Discard fruit that is mouldy, rotten, leaking or already smells fermented.
Wash the pears, remove the stalks, halve and core them, then chop into rough pieces. Sound skins can stay on. From 2.5kg whole fruit you will usually have around 2.2–2.3kg prepared pear after the cores and damaged sections are removed.
Before you begin
Sanitise after cleaning
Cleaning removes dirt. Sanitising reduces unwanted microbes. Do both, and follow the sanitiser label exactly.
Write down every reading
Record the date, temperature, starting gravity and later hydrometer readings.
Trust the hydrometer
Airlock bubbles can stop because of a poor seal. Stable hydrometer readings confirm fermentation has finished.
How to Make Pear Wine
Clean and sanitise the equipment
Wash away all visible dirt first. Prepare the sanitiser according to its label, then sanitise the fermentation bucket, lid, large coarse straining bag, spoon, hydrometer, trial jar and anything else that will touch the cooled must.
Make and cool the first sugar syrup
Dissolve 500g brewing sugar in about 1.5 litres of boiling water. Stir until clear, then leave the syrup to cool below 25°C before cutting the pears.
Prepare the pears
Wash the fruit, remove the stalks and cores, then chop the pears into rough pieces. Put them straight into the sanitised large coarse straining bag inside the fermentation bucket. Lightly crush a few pieces with the sanitised spoon to release juice, but do not blend or purée them.
Build the must and add Campden promptly
Pour in the cooled sugar syrup, add the 250ml white grape concentrate and enough cool water to bring the liquid to roughly four litres. Stir in 1 teaspoon acid blend. Crush one Campden tablet to a fine powder, stir it in immediately and fit the sanitised lid. Leave for 12 hours.
Add the pectolase
After 12 hours, stir in one teaspoon of pectolase. Replace the lid and leave for another 12 hours. Pears are rich in pectin, so this step is important for juice extraction and later clearing.
Drain the fruit temporarily
Lift the fruit bag with sanitised hands or utensils and let it drain over the bucket for about 10 minutes without wringing it. Set it in a sanitised container while the liquid is adjusted.
Set the initial liquid volume
Stir the liquid thoroughly and add cool water to bring it to approximately 4.2 litres. This leaves room for any small sugar solution that may be needed after the hydrometer reading.
Take the first hydrometer reading
Make sure the must is close to the hydrometer's calibration temperature, normally 20°C. Use a well-mixed, pulp-free sample and read the hydrometer at eye level.
Adjust the sugar only if needed
Aim for a final starting gravity of 1.080–1.090. If the reading is low, dissolve 50g brewing sugar in about 40ml boiling water, cool it below 25°C, add it and stir thoroughly. Retest and repeat only as required, using 25g portions when close to the target.
If the gravity is already on target, add no more sugar. Ripe pears and grape concentrate can contribute a substantial amount of their own fermentable sugar.
Make the final volume 4.5 litres
Add cool water to make the liquid volume exactly 4.5 litres, stir thoroughly and take one final reading. Record it as the original gravity, or OG. Return the pear bag to the bucket once the reading has been recorded.
Add nutrient and yeast
Stir in one teaspoon of yeast nutrient. Prepare the Gervin GV5 according to the sachet instructions and use the full sachet. Aim for around 15–18°C to help preserve the delicate pear aroma.
Manage the fruit each day
Fit the lid and airlock. Once or twice each day, sanitise the spoon, gently push the pear bag beneath the liquid, stir briefly and replace the lid immediately. Press the bag only lightly.
Start checking the gravity from day three
From about the third day, take a hydrometer reading once a day. Use the progress of fermentation rather than the calendar alone to decide when to remove the fruit.
Remove the pears at about 1.040
When the specific gravity reaches around 1.040, usually after four to six days, lift out the fruit bag and let it drain over the fermenter. Press only lightly and do not wring it. Remove the fruit by day seven even if fermentation has progressed more slowly.
Transfer to the demijohn
Syphon the wine into the sanitised 1 gallon glass demijohn, leaving the thickest pulp and sediment behind. Avoid pouring or splashing. While fermentation is still active, fill to around the shoulder and fit the sanitised bung and airlock.
Let secondary fermentation continue
Keep the demijohn at around 15–18°C and out of direct sunlight. Fermentation normally continues for several more weeks after the fruit is removed.
Confirm fermentation with stable readings
Take a hydrometer reading once activity has clearly slowed, then repeat it at least 48 hours later. Fermentation is complete only when the readings are identical. Dry pear wine often finishes around 0.995–1.005, and can occasionally finish a little above 1.000 because pears contain naturally occurring sorbitol that wine yeast does not fully ferment. Stability matters more than one exact finishing number.
Rack the finished wine
Once the gravity is stable, syphon the wine into a clean sanitised demijohn and leave the sediment behind. Minimise splashing and top up so the wine sits into the narrow neck with as little headspace as practical, then replace the airlock.
Allow the wine to clear
Leave the wine somewhere cool, dark and steady for at least six to eight weeks. Pear wine can hold a persistent pectin haze, so allow time and rack again only when a meaningful new layer of sediment has formed.
Check that the wine is ready
Confirm stable hydrometer readings, clear wine with no obvious haze and no meaningful new sediment for at least two weeks. Taste a small sample as well; young pear wine can be quite subtle before maturation.
Bottle without splashing
Sanitise the clear wine bottles, syphon tubing, corks and corker as their instructions require. Syphon gently into each bottle and cork it. Keep the bottles upright for the first 24 hours, then store them somewhere cool and dark.
Mature before drinking
Allow at least six months from brew day before making a final judgement. Around nine months often gives a rounder wine with a clearer pear aroma and better integration.
Beginner's pear wine timeline
| Approximate time | What to do | What decides the next step |
|---|---|---|
| Brew day | Make and cool the sugar syrup, prepare pears, add concentrate, acid blend and Campden | Campden is added promptly after the fruit is cut |
| 12 hours later | Add pectolase | Wait a further 12 hours |
| About 24 hours | Adjust volume and gravity; add nutrient and yeast | Final OG is 1.080–1.090 |
| Days 1–3 | Push the fruit down and stir once or twice daily | Begin gravity checks from day three |
| Usually days 4–6 | Remove and gently drain the pears | Gravity is around 1.040; remove by day seven |
| Weeks 2–6 | Allow secondary fermentation to finish | Two identical hydrometer readings at least 48 hours apart |
| Following 1–3 months | Rack and allow the wine to clear | Minimal headspace and no meaningful new sediment |
| From about month 3–4 | Bottle only when all readiness checks are passed | Stable gravity, clear wine and no new sediment |
| Months 6–9+ | Mature, then taste | Longer ageing normally gives a rounder result |
The calendar is a guide, not a bottling instruction. The hydrometer and the condition of the wine always take priority over the date.
Final bottling checklist
- The hydrometer reading is unchanged across at least 48 hours.
- The wine is clear with no obvious fruit or pectin haze in a sample.
- No meaningful new sediment has formed for at least two weeks.
- The wine tastes still, not fizzy or actively fermenting.
- Any back-sweetening has been carried out only after correct stabilisation.
- Bottles, syphon, corks and corker have been prepared correctly.
Common Problems
The pears or must turned brown
Pear flesh oxidises quickly. Prepare the cooled syrup first, cut the pears last, add the Campden promptly and minimise air exposure. Some colour change is normal, but avoid unnecessary splashing after fermentation begins.
The wine remains cloudy
Pears are rich in pectin and create fine pulp. Use pectolase, keep the fruit in the large coarse bag, avoid blending or hard squeezing and allow plenty of clearing time.
The pear flavour seems weak
Use fully ripe aromatic fruit, keep the final batch at 4.5 litres and ferment GV5 on the cooler side. Under-ripe pears and warm fermentation can leave a much less expressive wine.
The wine tastes flat
Many dessert pears are low in acidity. The acid blend in this recipe provides structure, but pear varieties differ. If a finished wine still tastes flat, make any further acid adjustment in small measured additions rather than guessing.
The wine tastes too sharp
Naturally tart culinary or perry pears may need less acid blend than sweet dessert pears. Give the wine time to mature before making major corrections; slight back-sweetening after correct stabilisation can also soften perceived acidity.
The final gravity is just above 1.000
That does not automatically mean fermentation is stuck. Pears contain sorbitol, which can remain after yeast has fermented the ordinary sugars. Look for identical hydrometer readings at least 48 hours apart and judge the whole condition of the wine.
FAQs
Which pears are best for homemade pear wine?
Use ripe, aromatic pears with sound flesh. Conference, Comice and Williams/Bartlett are all good choices. Sweet dessert pears usually give the most fragrant result; more acidic or tannic culinary and perry pears may need different acid adjustment.
Can I use supermarket pears?
Yes. If they are hard and have little aroma, let them ripen first. They should smell distinctly of pear and give slightly when pressed without being rotten or collapsing.
Do I need to peel or core pears for wine?
Leave sound, well-washed skins on, but remove stalks and cores before fermentation. Chop the fruit rather than blending it.
Can I use frozen pears?
Yes. Core and chop them before freezing if practical, then thaw in a clean covered container and use all of the released juice. Frozen pears become very soft, so keep them in the large coarse straining bag.
How many pears do I need for 4.5 litres of wine?
Start with about 2.5kg of whole ripe pears. After removing stalks, cores and damaged sections, this normally leaves roughly 2.2–2.3kg of prepared fruit.
Why use white grape concentrate in pear wine?
Pear flavour is delicate and the finished wine can otherwise feel light. White grape concentrate adds body and fermentable grape sugar without changing the colour significantly. The hydrometer is still used to set the final sugar level.
Can I make pear wine without grape concentrate?
Yes. Omit it and begin with around 650g brewing sugar instead of 500g, then use the hydrometer and add more sugar only as needed to reach an OG of 1.080–1.090.
Does pear wine need acid blend?
Most sweet dessert pears are relatively low in acidity, so this recipe uses 1 teaspoon of acid blend per 4.5 litres. Pear varieties vary considerably, however. If you are using distinctly tart culinary or perry pears, use an acidity or pH test where possible rather than automatically adding the full amount.
Why does pear wine need pectolase?
Pears contain plenty of pectin, which can leave a persistent haze. Pectolase helps break it down and assists juice extraction. See our pectolase guide.
Why is a hydrometer especially useful with pears?
Pear sugar varies significantly with variety and ripeness, so a fixed sugar weight cannot guarantee the same wine every time. Use the hydrometer to set the OG at 1.080–1.090 and later to confirm fermentation is stable. See our How to Take a Hydrometer Reading guide.
Can I use a different wine yeast?
Gervin GV5 is recommended because it performs well with delicate white fruit wines and can develop excellent bouquet at cooler temperatures. Another clean white-wine yeast can work; follow its own preparation and temperature instructions.
How long should the pears stay in the fermenter?
Remove the fruit when the specific gravity reaches around 1.040, normally after four to six days. Do not leave the pear pulp in for more than seven days.
How long does pear wine take to ferment?
Active fermentation commonly takes around three to six weeks, but time alone cannot confirm completion. Use two identical hydrometer readings taken at least 48 hours apart.
Why can dry pear wine finish above 1.000?
Pears naturally contain sorbitol, a sweet-tasting sugar alcohol that ordinary wine yeast does not fully ferment. That means a genuinely dry pear wine can sometimes show a final gravity around or slightly above 1.000. Stable readings matter more than chasing a particular number.
How strong will pear wine be?
An OG of 1.080–1.090 generally gives roughly 11–12.5% ABV, depending on the actual final gravity.
Can I make the finished wine sweeter?
Yes. A small amount of sweetness can make the pear aroma seem fuller, but let fermentation finish and the wine clear first. Stabilise correctly before adding sweetener and confirm it remains stable before bottling. See our How to Back-Sweeten Wine guide.
How long should pear wine mature?
Allow at least six months from brew day. Around nine months often gives a rounder, more integrated wine, particularly when the batch has been fermented fully dry.
What does homemade pear wine taste like?
Expect a pale straw-to-gold wine with a delicate pear aroma, gentle fruit character and a clean white-wine style. Fully dry pear wine is much less sweet than fresh pears; careful back-sweetening after stabilisation can make the fruit more obvious.
How long will homemade pear wine keep?
Well-made, properly bottled pear wine can keep for several years. Store bottles somewhere cool, dark and at a steady temperature.